What I was asking about was the "domed set(ter)" that makes a dome on the opposite side. I feel bad that you wrote all that TwinOaks - maybe I didn't make it clear enough that I understood how the whole things work. Don't set copper burr rivets on your stamping block.unless you're angling for a new stamping block. I was having difficulty with the domed part of the set until I picked up 'enough' hammer (24oz smooth face Estwing) and flattened the post a good bit with direct impact. After all, you're beating a short metal post into a wider and flatter piece of metal. My experience is that you need something pretty solid under the rivet, and a real hammer.NOT a mallet.to do the peening. As long as you have the washer in there, the leather is REALLY unlikely to work it loose. Once that is done, the only way to remove the washer is to move all that copper that's been peened down.which typically 'work hardens' it. That little nub is literally BEATEN (peened) until you deform and spread the metal out to cover a portion of the washer. Once you drive the washer down on the post, you clip off the excess post, leaving just a little nub. The post has a slight taper at the tip to help align the washer, but you aren't likely to push it down by hand. The post is on the opposite end of the head.much like a nail, and the washer is driven down over it. The post of the rivet (which gets clipped) IS the part that gets peened over. Otherwise, the dome side may come out crooked, no? when using the other tool(s) - for setting copper rivets (3 pieces Douglas tools) what happens to the side that you've clipped and peened when you have it flipped over to use the rivet "doming" punch on the other side? Seems like it would need to sit in an anvil with a hole in the center (to accomdate the peened stem). Hi Art, I like that little Wonder, I need to look into it. In a production shop that uses a lot of different sizes and types of fasteners, a bunch of Little Wonders set up for the things you do the most and then a couple for the odd things would work nicely. We sew most everything so we don't use rivets much and more often than not they are burr rivets for strength. In the video, you will see all the adjusting going on with the Little Wonder. I have 2 Press-N-Snap setters from my boat canvas days loaded with everything to set Ligne 24 snaps. I set Burr rivets with a set of tools from Bob Douglas call Vandy at Sheridan Leather. I have this machine and it is not for burr rivets. Are extra pieces needed to do a variety of rivet sizes (like various die or whatever) - does anyone know? Springfield's add mentions a die for line 20 snaps but what about the various rivet sizes? And if so, could those pieces still be sourced somewhere?įrom Weaver Leather. I think what I'm most interested in is the bench mounted hand press type rivet setter, of course you can get old used ones on ebay for much cheaper (usually Rex brand etc). Maybe you were meaning the "Rivet Setter" which pops up a single item (that you strike with a hammer) but I think even that needs an anvil under it. I'm not finding an individual tool (single item) used for rivets when searching their site with the fraise "rivet set". I use #9 sized rivets on the rare occasion I happen to need them. Just match the size of the set to the size of the rivet. You use the rivet set (a single tool, not a group of things) that you may purchase from Springfield Leather or other suppliers.
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